Thursday 6 March 2014

The travel bug: Shikoku style

So as most of you already probably know, I have signed the contract to stay in Japan for another year. This means more time to learn Japanese, more time to build up my teaching experience, and of course, more time to travel! However, this doesn't mean that I'm keeping my trips to a minimum. In fact, it just makes me more anxious to see even more of Japan and Asia.

This may across as cliched or ridiculous sounding or whatever you choose to believe, but for me travelling isn't an option. It really is a necessity. Part of the reason I studied Italian at university in the first place was to have the chance to live and study there for a year. As I've gotten older, and especially after living in Italy, holidays have never really been enough for me as I have a yearning to actually live in a place for an extended period of time so that I become familiar with the people, the language and the culture. 

Living abroad has completely changed who I am and how I see the world. When I went back to Scotland after Italy, I noticed how things that I had always taken for granted as being "normal" are only specific to British culture or to where I live. I will admit that after living in Italy, a land in which the people have such a passion and zest for life, the British people grated on me with their constant insincere apologies and at first what appears to be a cold demeanour. Though at the same time, I was also able to appreciate the distinct British charm, which I think is a mixture of quirk, banter and a good dose of sarcasm. We never take ourselves too seriously, and I find that to be a great characteristic in a person. 

For me, Japanese culture is basically the polar opposite of Italian culture. There are positive and negatives to every culture, so whilst the Japanese can initially come across as stand-offish and uncaring due to their reluctance to show their feelings in public and have physical contact with other people, they have proven themselves to be extremely helpful and kind. The Japanese often put aside their own feelings in order to ensure the comfort of others, something which is practically an alien concept in the West. Everything is about bettering the community and working together as a team. In the West this just sounds like godawful business teamwork jargon.

In terms of travelling, I would say that stepping off the train into a brand new city is my favourite thing in the world. It can seem daunting at first, but as I got used to having a full day to simply just walk about and explore, I began to love it more and more. I think it's even addictive.

Although it has been a while since I was last on one of those rickety old TrenItalia regional trains, I will never forget that horrible screech of the brakes as they rolled into the station. Despite it being a rather unpleasant sound, for me it came to signify a sense of unfolding hope and adventure as I wondered what would await for me in this new city. And now I actually miss that terrible noise!

A couple of weeks ago here in Japan, I decided to embark on a short couch surfing adventure to the neighbouring prefecture of Kagawa. It was only for 1 night since my job means that I have to stick to travelling on weekends and holidays, but I am still really glad I did it. Initially I read the train directions wrong and actually ended up by accident on Honshu, the main island of Japan. But it was very easy to jump on the next train back to Shikoku.

After finally arriving to Kagawa in one piece, I went straight up the mountain of Yashima. I was surprised that there was still a little leftover snow at the top, since I never saw any snow actually laying in my own prefecture which is right next to Kagawa. At the top there were some interesting temples and a cool view!






The rest of the day I spent simply just walking around, since I feel that's the best way to get to know a new city. I spent a couple of hours in Ritsurin Gardens, which is the most beautiful, quintessentially Japanese, zen-like park that I have ever been in!











Later on I met up with my couchsurfing host. She probably had some of the best English that I've ever come across in a Japanese person, since she had spent a few years living in Australia. She and her friend took me to a nice curry udon restaurant, which is the famous cuisine of Kagawa prefecture. We then went to an izakaya and has these seriously amazing glowing alcoholic drinks. I think the ice cube maybe had a light in it? Though I don't know for the life of me how that isn't some kind of hazard... Crazy Japanese technology!




I was absolutely exhausted after my full day of walking around, but I was welcomed really warmly by the family of my host. Her parents were some of the friendliest and most welcoming Japanese people that I have ever met, making me feel at home and taking a lot of interest in my life in Japan and my hometown. Couchsurfing can seem scary to some people, but as long as you are sensible and choose wisely, you can meet some really great people through it!

The next day I set out to go to Naoshima, which if you don't know, is a seriously cool art-filled island in the Seto inland sea between Honshu and Shikoku. Stepping off the ferry, Naoshima just looks like any other inaka Japanese island, but it is actually home to some renowned art museums and exhibitions. It's only really a few kilometers around, so everything is walkable or easy to get to on the shuttle buses.

My personal favourites were these pumpkins created by Yasoi Kusuma, a very famous Japanese artist.






I also loved this bathhouse called "I love Yu". Sadly I never had enough time to actually go in.



I would say that the best word to describe Naoshima is "surreal", as you are walking around some quaint little Japanese village and suddenly come across this house.



With this stuff in it.






Or when you are walking along a quiet coastline and suddenly come across these.






Yep, Naoshima is definitely worth a visit.

The next weekend my Japanese friend very kindly took me and couple of other ALTs on a road trip round Shikoku. This meant that I was finally getting to visit the remaining 2 prefectures of Tokushima and Kochi!

The first stop was Kazurabashi Bridge in Tokushima, which took a lot of precarious driving on the part of my Japanese friend due to all the tiny Japanese roads perched on the edge of mountains. Definitely made for some spectacular views though. Before getting on the bridge I had some of the best handmade soba noodles ever. They were practically falling apart in my mouth, they were that fresh.



The bridge itself is probably one of the most famous bridges in Japan. It is made entirely with rope and wood planks and swings about in a middle of a beautiful gorge. I'm definitely not one to be afraid when it comes to heights and rickety wood bridges, so I had a great time running about on the bridge. I had to stop myself from jumping about since everyone else looked terrified.


This is the bridge hanging precariously in the valley
Me and some random guy photobombing each other

After that we hit the road again to Kochi prefecture, this time heading to Kochi City. To me, Kochi City had an airy summer-like feel to it. There was a long road of palm trees swaying in the winter sunshine and a cool castle perched overlooking the city. It was very much a whirlwind tour of Kochi since time was running out, but I definitely got enough of a feel to know that it is somewhere I would like to return.


  We had enough time to pose on this famous red bridge.


I'm a bit hazy about the story behind it, but I think it involves forbidden love between a woman and a monk. Finally we each had the most enormous plate of chicken in the world before heading back to good old Ehime.

And those are my travels so far. More will be happening soon. I've got to feed my addiction after all.